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RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STRE
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1851.
LONDON:
BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.
Sef N
Tall
-21-42
44787
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Residence of the Pasha Foundation of Mosul-Its Situation-
Its Mode of Communication with the other side of the River
-Reside at the Encampment of Mr. Layard-Tiyari Nestorian
Christians-Their Assassination by the Koords-Antiquity of
the Chaldean Christian Church-An Appeal on behalf of those
that yet remain-The Jabour Tribe
CHAPTER II.
Frequent Visitation of furious Gales-The Effects on the Tents-
Excavations by Mr. Layard described-Reflections caused by
the Monuments-Arrival of Southern Pilgrims on their way to
Mecca-How other Pilgrims now reach their Destination-
Further Excavations by Mr. Layard The Well of Thisbe-
How the raised Monuments verify and illustrate the Language
of the Prophets-How far Mussulmans are addicted to the
drinking of Wine-Legend of Mahomet respecting Wine-Two
hostile Tribes-The Tai Tribe-Its Antiquity-Pride of the old
Sheik-Arab Muskets Described-Pay-day on the Mound-
Another furious Gale-Start on an Excursion to Nimroud-
House of Mr. Layard there-Present State of the Villages-
Excavations at Tel Nimroud-Imposing and solemn Effect
of some of the excavated Figures - Prepare to depart for
Kourdistan
PAGE
1
13
CHAPTER III.
Alarm of Baggage and Servants lost - Their Re-appearance -
Preparations for the Tour-Departure from Nimroud-Offer-
ings by the Way-Reach the Zab-Besieged by sick Villagers
for physical Remedies-Domestic Quarrel in the Village-How
it was maintained, and its Result-Junction of the Zab with the
Tigris-Visit from the Sheik Abd-er-Rahman-His Entertain-
ment-Negoub-Description ofit-Attempt to examine the Outer
Face of a Rock Tunnel-Arab Attendant - His Character and
vi
Peculiarities-His Exhortation to Patience, and personal Exem-
plification of that Virtue-How far the Prophet is obeyed as to
Cleanliness-Visit to the Convent St. Hhother Elias-Its Church
-Inhospitable Christian Arabs-Measurement of Time by the
Arabs-Difference of Opinion between a Turk and a Persian
concerning Time-Distance, as calculated by time in the East. 38
CHAPTER IV.
Reach Bartella-Kindness of the Priest there-Persecution of the
Christians-Want of Privacy in the East-Incessant Visits from
staring Strangers-How a Traveller should comport himself in
the East-Fall from my horse-Take Refuge in a Convent―
Its Renovation by the Bishop-Accommodation there--Kind-
ness of Mr. and Mrs. Badger-What a Traveller in the East
has to expect in the matter of eating and drinking-Food of
the Natives, rich and poor-View from the Convent-Plain
repeopled-Past Ages called up-Destruction of the Convents
by Tamerlane-Strike amongst the workmen-Peculiar Exhor-
tations of the Bishop-Marriage Tests of the Chaldean Girls—
Journey pursued-Two of the Party fall Sick-Cool Retreat-
Complaining Visitors-The Jews and the young Jewess
CHAPTER V.
Continued Illness of some of the Party-How Sickness is borne by
Natives of the East-Accompanied by Mr. Layard, start for the
Koord Mountains-Town of Ackra described-The Pasha
deposed by the Sultan-I fall sick-Murder of Professor
Schultz-Scenery on the Journey-Welcome of the Pasha to
Mr. Layard-Arrival at Van-Bitlis Cloth-Bazaars of Van-
Visit the Pasha-Reception by his Hasnedara-Taken worse-
Tacktervan in which I journeyed to the Convent―The Dresses
of the People of Van-Policy of the Porte briefly considered-
Frankish Dress adopted by Turks- "Lebiss Stamboul"-
Apartments in the Convent, and partial Recovery-On the
Pleasure and Advantage, or otherwise, of travelling alone
CHAPTER VI.
Misery of being left alone in Sickness-The Hytas-His History—
His Habits and peculiar Cookery-Illusions and Vagaries of
Delirium-Reception by the Hadjee of the truant Servants-
Visit of the Armenian Bishop-Mussulman Fast-How the
Kavass of Mr. Layard kept it—His exploit at Van-Interior of
the Church-The Chapels-Trading in the East-Monks of the
Convent-Armenians Their good and bad Qualities--Oppro-
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80