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Muslim divines affirm that prayers recited in the mosque of Madina are peculiarly acceptable to the Deity, and incite the Faithful to perform this pilgrimage by telling them that one prayer said in sight of the "Hujra" is as efficacious as one thousand said in any other mosque except that of Mecca."

One peculiarity at Madina must not escape mention, to wit, that there are placed at the pulpit and in one or two other places in the mosque large wax candles sent from Constantinople; these, which are as thick as a man's body, and twelve feet high, are lighted in the evening by means of a ladder placed near them. The doors of the building are closed about three hours after sunset, and opened about an hour subsequent to dawn; but those who wish to pray all night can easily obtain permission from the eunuch in charge, who sleeps near the "Hujra." During the ninth month of the year the mosque is kept open all night. It may be added that the whole charge of the sacred building is entrusted to about forty or fifty eunuchs, who are much respected in Madina, assuming in consequence airs of great importance-indeed, when they pass through the bazaar it is customary for persons to kiss the guardians' hands. They have large stipends, which are sent annually from Constantinople by the Syrian caravan, and they also share in all the donations made to the mosque, while, in addition, they expect presents from every rich pilgrim, as well as fees from visitors to the "Hujra." These unfortunate creatures live together in one of the best quarters of the city, and their houses are said to be furnished in the most costly and luxurious manner. Another distinctive peculiarity, also, attaches to Madina-Burckhardt's

remarks in allusion to it are at once instructive and interesting.

"The mosque at Mecca is visited daily by female Hajis, who have their own station assigned to them. At Madina, on the contrary, it is thought very indecorous in women to enter the mosque. Those who come here from foreign parts visit the tomb during the night after the last prayer, while the women resident in the town hardly ever venture to pass the threshold; my old landlady, who had lived close to it for fifty years, assured me that she had been only once in her life within its precincts, and that females of a low character only are daring enough to perform their prayers there. In general, women are seldom seen in the mosques in the East, although free access is not forbidden. A few are sometimes met in the most holy temples, as that of 'Azhar' at Cairo, where they offer up their thanks to Providence for any favour which they may have taken a vow thus to acknowledge. Even in their houses the women seldom pray, except devout old ladies, and it is remarked as an extraordinary accomplishment in a woman if she knows her prayers well, and has got by heart some chapters of the Quran, women being considered in the East as inferior creatures, to whom some learned commentators on the Quran deny even the entrance into Paradise ; * their husbands care little about their strict observance of religious rites, and many of them even dislike it, because it raises them nearer to a level with themselves, and it is remarked that the woman makes a bad wife who can once claim the respect to which she is entitled by the regular reading of prayers."

Last, but perhaps not least, amongst the peculiarities of Madina, are the millions of insects of the most irritating description, who are only too happy to transfer their allegiance to any devout pilgrims who visit the mosque, be they rich or be they poor, for these creatures are no respecters of persons; nor does the evil end here, for the votary of necessity transfers these plagues to the lodging-houses which there swarm with vermin.

* This, as has been previously explained, is a libel upon Islam.

[graphic]

PILGRIMS IN CAMP.

Reproduced by permission from C. Snouck Hurgronje's "Bilder aus Mekka."

Grandees and persons of wealth make the journey to Mecca with a numerous array of servants and attendants, well supplied with all the good things of this world; but the less pretentious and the humbler classes form companies of from fifteen to twenty persons, who travel together, thereby securing their safety, and saving their pockets. The whole cavalcade then generally makes a contract with some one to supply the caravan with animals as well as food and stores, the sum being stipulated before the start is commenced. Some three or four months prior to the period of the pilgrimage, these entrepreneurs, many of whom amass considerable fortunes, repair to the various villages and announce the approaching departure of the votaries: this is done by beat of drum, a sort of religious chant being sung at the same time, exhorting all faithful and pious Muslims to obey the injunctions of the Prophet. The principal gathering of pilgrims, known as the Syrian Caravan, sets out from Constantinople on the 12th of the seventh month, and collects the votaries of northern Asia in its passage through Anatolia and Syria, until it reaches Damascus, where it remains for several weeks, being placed under the charge of the Pasha of the Province, who, in virtue of the duties which fall to his share, assumes the title and dignity of "Chief of the Hajj." As the early Khalifs for many years discharged personally this high and important office, and placed themselves at the head of the pilgrims, it may well be imagined that this position is at once respected and coveted; nor is it cause for astonishment that in such circumstances the Pasha of Damascus is surrounded with considerable pomp when

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