an immense amphitheatre lay before us, of which the boundaries were lofty mountains of every form, covered more than half-way to their summits with foliage: Doomberra Peak (its native name is Hoonisgirikandy) about 6000 feet high, lay partly buried in clouds; the plain beneath us was like the most cultivated park scenery, with the river running over rocks through its centre; the only thing wanted to complete the picture, and which the eye sought in vain, was a vestige of human life; nothing but an occasional Hindoo temple was to be seen in places where noblemen's seats might well have stood. Native huts there doubtless were, for besides that the Candian district is populous, the cocoa-palm, of which a few clumps were seen, pointed them out: villages are universally marked by these trees, which are not elsewhere common in the provinces; but till one is close upon them, the huts are not to be distinguished from the surrounding jungle, so that the whole country looked like a glorious desert."

CHAPTER V.

Modern Kandy - Newera Ellia · Sirr's and Pridham's descriptions

"The Giant's Tamarind" in Putlam - Saltpans Monessaram Katragam

Remarkable well at Nanakeery.

IN Kandy, as now modernized, there are two principal streets the Colombo street running east and west, and dividing the towns into two nearly equal parts; and the Trincomalee street running north and south, and at right angles with the other. A few more streets run parallel to these.

Malabar street, in the east, is a kind of suburb, and has the further advantage of being in the vicinity of the lake. The principal bazaar is at the intersection of Colombo and Trincomalee streets, and there are several boutiques in and about the town; the bazaar equals that of Colombo.

The Pavilion at the north-east end of the town is the finest structure in Ceylon, and rivals in outward appearance the merchant palaces in the vicinity of Calcutta. At the west of the town is the MajorGeneral's residence, a large and commodious house standing upon a hill, in the range forming the western boundary of the town; half-way down the hill is the Royal Cemetery, containing the bodies or ashes

of kings and heroes for many generations deposited there; it has a number of plain tombstones, with Singhalese inscriptions and a small temple within its walls. Beyond the cemetery are several officers' quarters, the parade-ground, and principal European

cantonment.

The Palace and buildings connected with it, which belonged to the King of Kandy's court, are appropriated for public offices, and the hall of audience is used as a court of justice on common days, and as a church on Sundays; some handsomely carved pillars extend the whole length on each side.

The Library, a modern building, consists of two very fine rooms opening on a veranda. It is situated near the bridge, which divides the parade-ground from the approach to Malabar street, and stands upon pillars erected in the lake by order of the late king as the foundation of a set of baths.

There is also a spacious jail, a hospital, the castle barrack, on Castle-hill, in the range forming the southern boundary of the town; government houses occupied by military officers, the native lines and quarters for the native officers. In Trincomalee street, opposite the Pavilion, an hotel was established in 1832 with good accommodation for "man and beast."

There are sixteen temples, four belonging to the Hindoos and twelve to the Budhists. The principal of the latter is the Dalada Maligawa, close to the Hall of Audience, containing the relic of Budha (his right canine tooth).

The lake of Kandy lies between high hills, and, running along them, forms the southern boundary of the town. It is about three-quarters of a mile in length and 150 yards in breadth, the latter varying, as the banks do not run parallel all the way. The road round the lake is 24 miles, and is a pleasant morning and evening resort for air and exercise. A bridle and foot road winds along the sides of the hills at the back of the Pavilion, presenting magnificent views of the surrounding country, particularly Doombera.

The river Mahavilla Ganga flows about four miles from the town, over which the fine bridge, which has been already mentioned, is thrown at Peradenia, on the road to Colombo. Another tempting spot, on the same road, for Europeans, is Newera Ellia; it was chosen by Sir E. Barnes in 1828 as a convalescent station, and he built a house there, and others followed his example (limestone having been fortunately discovered in the neighbourhood); it is 6000 feet above the level of the sea. The temperature of the air never approaches to what is called tropical heat; and though the cold is at times sufficient to produce ice, the piercing wind sometimes felt in England is never known there; the annual range of the thermometer is from 350 to 8010. All descriptions of English vegetables, fruits, and flowers are cultivated here. There are numerous springs and wells of pure water; chalybeate springs also, and game in the neighbourhood. By taking the mail coach from Colombo to Kandy, a passenger may proceed

from the latter place to Newera Ellia by a carriageroad of 47 miles in a south-eastern direction.

The following is Sirr's description of this locality:--

“The boldness of the scenery around Newera Ellia can only be equalled by that of Snowdon, as it is encircled on every side by craggy mountains, amongst which is the loftiest mountain in Ceylon, Pedro-tallagalla, whose towering peak rises 8300 feet above the level of the ocean.

“The plain is dotted over with whitewashed residences, recalling many home recollections, for on the roof of every dwelling are to be seen chimneys; the cool and bracing atmosphere not only rendering fires pleasant morning and evening, but causing them to be absolutely necessary.”

"Nothing about Newera Ellia tells of the tropics; the bracing air enabling Europeans to walk out at any hour of the day, the mental and bodily faculties soon regain their lost vigour, the frame is invigorated, the palled appetite recovers its tone, and speedily the hollow sallow cheek becomes rounded and assumes health's roseate hue; many a desponding invalid, whose large family and slender means forbade return to his native land, has reason to bless the day this sanatorium was discovered.

"The beauties of vegetation also bear a familiar aspect, as the eye is gladdened with floral gifts that appertain especially to the temperate zone, such as rhododendrons, the white guelder, damask, and pink rose-trees, violets, sweet peas, acacia. Peach, apple, and pear trees, with nearly every fruit and vegetable that are produced or consumed by us, can be met with in the immediate neighbourhood; and all this is found on the summit of a mountain seven degrees from the equator, where occasionally the thermometer has fallen below 280, and where ice half an inch in thickness is sometimes found in the morning.

"The town of Newera Ellia stands upon a plain 6300