we were on the point of succumbing to fatigue, but as often, after a halt of a few seconds, we again strode on-"Excelsior" our cry, until, after passing the Yakkahatta wegala, an immense perpendicular rock frowning above the path on the left of the ascent, we stood on the summit of the ridge, and entered Heramiṭipána, where we purposed resting our wearied limbs. The heat was excessive, and some of us almost vowed never to undertake such a journey again; but six months later the experience of perhaps the most fatigued of the number was as follows:

From the Síta-gangula to Heramițipána, "we had before us a long series of high rough steps of rock, winding up the gorge. But owing to the heavy drenching rain then falling, a mountain torrent was now rushing down, and each step was a small waterfall. Consequently, in forcing our way up this gorge, we had to plunge through a shower bath at every step. Not that we cared for the wetting. In fact we were always wet. It would be hard to say which would be most wetted by the contact—we or the torrent. Dry clothes we had long looked upon with scorn, as tokens of effeminacy and luxury. But even disregarding the wet, it was not very easy to make head against that water. However we at last reached the top, where we took possession of the bungalow buildings of Heramițipána.

* On this journey, and on the subsequent one as well, from the time of our leaving Ratnapura, it rained more or less the greater part of every day. After once getting drenched, our plan was to strip off our wet clothes

It was past mid-day when we reached this spot on our first excursion, and we had not accomplished more than about eight and a half miles in more than six hours, and there were yet perhaps two and a half to be traversed ere we "the sacred impress of the lotus foot could see," in its temple-shrine at the top of the Samanala, which stood full before us in all the sublimity of its majestic height and size. To attempt to go further was out of the question, and besides, our coolies with commissariat supplies had not yet come up, and we were hungry as well as weary.

The station, built in the shape of a quadrangle, 70 feet by 30, in its inner square, was filled to overflowing, and as we could obtain no room under any sheltering roof, we were fain to do as hundreds of others were doing, and bivouac in the open, with umbrellas to screen our heads from the sun's burning rays-the intensity of which was little less than in Colombo, although we were now 4,350 feet or more above the level of the sea. Casting ourselves down on mats courteously spread for us, we watched the animated scene

at each halting place, and wring them as dry as we could, and while we rested or stayed, to enjoy the comforts of warm dry suits, which with our rugs, were carefully packed in a large water-proof wrapper. When we proceeded, we again got into our damp suits, but the active exertions which immediately followed, prevented any inconvenient or evil results. The chief difference in our two journeys was, that in September we had much mist and little sunshine with the rain; in December we had more sunshine and scarcely any mist.

around. Huge copper and brass and iron caldrons were seething their contents over dozens of fires inside and outside the bungalows on each side of the quadrangle; thousands of natives were busy eating, or arranging themselves in their best for the final ascent; companies were continually coming and going; singing or chanting on their way stanzas of the Samanala-hella;* the noise of the tam-tam and doula and horanéwa was incessant, and ever and anon arose the cry of "Sádhu! Sádhu!"-the shout of many voices saluting the sacred shrine above, the outline of which was perfectly distinct, as also was that of the long and many-coloured string of natives, winding up and down the mountain side, eager to attain the end of their journey, or as eager to return, now the great object of their pilgrimage had been attained. We had not lain long however, before we attracted the notice. of a kind motherly looking Sinhalese lady, who sent each of

* The Samanala-hella is one of the popular ballads of the Sinhalese, having about as much poetry in its composition, in the estimation of educated natives, as the street songs of London, the productions of the bards of the Seven-Dials, have in comparison with the songs and ballads of the classic poets of England. But for all that they catch the attention, and are rivetted in the memories of those for whom they are specially written. The Samanala-hella consists of forty-eight four-line stanzas, each of which contains a recitation of an attribute of Buddha, or of an incident connected with his visit to the Samanala, or an allusion to Saman, or the features of the country, the usual occurrences on the journey, &c., and concludes with the determination of the singer to worship the 'Sirípa Samanala'-the sacred foot of Samanala.

us a brimming bowl of hot rice conjee, boiled in cocoa-nut milk, a dish we found by no means unpalatable, and certainly very refreshing in its immediate effects. For this she would accept nothing more than thanks; and we subsequently ascertained that the whole of the accommodation of the place as well as the food distributed, was given gratis by a Headman of the District;-a very meritorious and charitable act on his part, which we, with all the other pilgrims there assembled, most gratefully accepted.

By the time our servants had arrived, (and it was a marvel to us how they came at all with such heavy loads upon their heads) an exodus of a part of the pilgrims had taken place, and we took possession of the quarters they vacated, a space in a cock-loft of loose planks immediately below the tiles of the principal ambalama or bungalow. This ambalama (a building about 60 ft. by 30, with lean-to's at each end), is unwalled on three of its sides; the roof is supported by six rows of pillars, on the four inner rows of which is laid the planking that forms the upstairs apartment; a clear open space of about five feet all round this planking, enables those above to see nearly every thing that is going on below; the staircase leading to the cock-loft is the notched trunk of a tree. Here we spread our rugs and lay down awhile to rest, some fifty of our dusky coloured brethren sharing the apartment with us. Breakfast, tiffin, dinner, or whatever the meal might be called, was ere long served, our boxes doing duty for tables, and our rugs for chairs; and however rude the accessories might be, the viands were

good, and the cooking excellent; the only drawback to our enjoyment being the discovery that we had exhausted our stock of beer and brandy; we had however ample supplies of tea and coffee, and except that they took longer in getting ready, they were perhaps quite as good, if not better, than the more ardent beverages. Refreshed by rest and the meal we had partaken of, we amused ourselves, for the remainder of the day, in watching the proceedings of our fellow pilgrims,-who appeared to be equally as much amused with ours, and in admiring the grandeur of the surrounding scenery; the most attractive feature in which was the Samanala mountain, broad and huge and high, from the centre of whose long stretching ridge rose what here presented the appearance of a bell-shaped conic mass, the venerated shrine-capped Peak, to visit which we had joined the pilgrim throng.

* "The Reign of Summer." By JAMES MONTGOMERY.