But it was only from the time of Uttiya (267 B.C.) it became the settled capital until A.D. 729 (with an interlude of Sigiriya in A.D. 477). Then Polonnaruwa was the capital to A.D. 1013, and again, with breaks, up to 1314. King Pandu's second son was Tissa, in whose reign one of the most momentous events in the whole history of the island took place, for, as already related, Ceylon was converted to Buddhism by Mahinda, son of the great Asoka. The king met him on Mihintale Hill, eight miles from the town, and when he returned, bringing with him the great missionary, the people were naturally anxious to see him, and clamoured at the palace gates. If we could only know to-day exactly where that palace stood! The king said to his noisy subjects, "For all of you to assemble in this place is insufficient; prepare the great stables of the state elephants: there the inhabitants of the capital may see these theros." The people, however, declared "the elephant stables also are too confined," and so they went to "the royal pleasure-garden Nandana, situated without the southern gate, in a delightful forest, cool from its deep shade and soft green turf."

Subsequently, after addressing the multitude, the saintly stranger went "out of the southern gate of the Nandana pleasure-garden to the Mahamego pleasure-garden by its south-western gate." "There (on the western side of the spot where the bo-tree was subsequently planted), furnishing a delightful royal palace with splendid beds, chairs, and other conveniences in the most complete manner, he (the king) said, 'Do thou

sojourn here in comfort.' The king then dedicated the Mahamego pleasure-garden to the priesthood. Thereafter he marked the limits of the ground thus given and ploughed the boundary line with a golden plough.

Exquisitely painted vases, gorgeous flags tinkling with the bells attached to them, mirrors of glittering glass, festoons and baskets of flowers were carried in procession; triumphal arches were made of plantain trees, women carried umbrellas, and hundreds ran waving handkerchiefs. The whole scene is so human and natural we can picture it without difficulty, and we even know whereabouts it happened, for the bo-tree stands to this day and gives us a landmark.

The planting of this sacred tree-Ficus Religiosa-was one of the earliest events in the history of the city. And to-day the road from the station passes it. It is in the centre of the ground mentioned above which was given as a pleasuregarden by the king to the priests.

Come and visit the courtyard, passing through the ugly portal described on the first page of this book. Outside there are vendors of temple flowers and of pyramids of the unopened buds of the lotus, white and pink, looking like piles of fruit. It is a work of merit to buy these and turn back each petal lovingly until the flowers are fully opened before they are offered.

It is more than likely we shall be beset by beggars in the courtyard beyond the entrance, but Cingalese beggars are as a rule easily repulsed, and are not so audacious as those of India.

Under the shade of innumerable bo-trees, sprung

from the parent-tree, sits a calm Buddha, close by a curious wooden lintel and posts. This is the only fragment of ancient woodwork remaining in Anuradhapura amid all the brick and stone, and, though of course not ancient in comparison with some of the latter, is interesting on its own account. Mount to the higher terrace, and from there again up a steeper flight of steps to another, where there is a walk all round the tree, itself on a higher level still. In fact, the masonry consists of four platforms, each rather smaller than the one below, so as to leave a walk or terrace round it. It is said that originally the sacred tree was on the ground-level, but it has been built up by rich and special soil until the roots are far below the present surface.

Through two sets of railings, between which runs a narrow walk, we can gaze at the twisted stems of this amazing tree, carrying still a goodly crop of large pear-shaped leaves, resembling those of a balsam poplar. The wall of the innermost terrace is banked by ugly glazed green tiles, such as are used for the sides of suburban fireplaces.

When I visited the sacred spot a second time, after many years' interval, a line of devout worshippers was swaying and bowing, chanting monotonously on the outer terrace; while, alone on the inner one a monk, in a robe toned by frequent washing to an exquisite cinnamon colour, strode up and down. A mother-monkey, clasping her baby to her breast, ran down the sacred tree, but hurriedly scrambled back on seeing the monk in such close proximity. Her antipathy

was natural, for the monks object to the irreverent monkeys, and even attempted to banish them, but without success. The tree was surrounded by hundreds of little three-cornered flags, the offerings of pilgrims, and in vain I tried to find a spot where it was sufficiently visible to be photographed. The difficulty was increased by the fact that the light is at all times bad, for the tree is overshadowed by buildings and higher trees growing in the vicinity. The only result of this first attempt was-flags, and a clear view of the prop that supports the ancient stem, so that the picture seemed to call aloud for the title of " Monday in the suburbs." I came again many times without result, and remembered regretfully the time long ago when I had wandered at will beneath the very shadow of the tree and even picked up one of the leaves which happened to float to my feet. No such chance now! The leaves are esteemed of immense value, and even the devoutest of pilgrims has difficulty in getting At last, one day, speaking through an interpreter, I managed to persuade the solemnfaced monk who strode within the enclosure, of the earnestness of my desire, and he agreed to open the padlocked gate provided I removed my shoes before entering. I agreed readily, as the space was strewn with clean sand, and, making the most of the opportunity, obtained a result showing the actual tree (see p. 49).

one.

It was the sister of Mahinda, Princess Sanghamitta, who, following him in 288 B.C. to the island, brought with her a branch of the bo-tree under which Buddha sat in India when he received