CHAPTER XI

SIGIRIYA: A PALACE ON A ROCK

ANY one who takes the trouble to visit Sigiriya will carry away an impression that can never be effaced. This extraordinary granite rock rises sheer 400 feet from a sea of jungle; in itself it would be a remarkable geological phenomenon, but when it is remembered that a king in the fifth century built his palace on the summit, carrying the way up to it by a series of galleries that constitute a marvellous engineering feat even to-day, and that he ruled the kingdom from the inconvenient eyrie for eighteen years, the wonder of it is greatly increased. The rock lies some miles off the main road from Colombo to Trincomalee, and about twelve from Dambulla. From Anuradhapura the distance is about fifty miles either by the Habarane road (sometimes very bad and closed to motors) or by going near Dambulla. The rest-house (small) at Sigiriya is one of the prettiest in the province, but very out-of-the-way, letters being delivered only by special coolie and paid for accordingly. As may be imagined, therefore, that those who like luxuries, such as unsweetened milk in their tea, will do well to provide accordingly. On the forest road, before arrival, only glimpses of the magnifi

cent rock are caught; however, it is in clear view of the rest-house.

In the evening, when the western sun smites full upon it, making the red granite shine out between the dark streaks, the effect is doubly striking. The black curved lines on the surface, result of the monsoon rains, serve to emphasise the overhanging or mushroom formation of this strange geological freak. The sides rise bare and abrupt from the waving foliage round the base, but on the summit one or two detached trees, of the apparent size of plants, stand out against the sky.

The road past the rest-house runs on to the rock for a distance of half a mile, and stops at the foot of the first flight of stairs.

As now arranged, the ascent presents no difficulty to any normal person not easily turned giddy by heights, and can be accomplished in about half an hour.

The first flight of worn steps leads upwards to the raised ground, impinging on the foot of the rock, and carry one straightway into a perfect Paradise. But this is best explored on the return journey.

The next flight of steps is what was known as the south entrance. This is rather misleading, as one naturally supposes it to be on the south side of the rock, instead of, as it is, on the western, but as a matter of fact the two ascents, north and south, were only so-called in relation to each other, and are both on the western face. The remains of the rough broken steps of the northern one can be seen when we begin the ascent on the southern. The upper stairs of the south approach

were excavated in 1895, the steps were relaid in 1909, also three staircases and landings were partially constructed, almost uniting the upper flights with the terrace below, from which the staircase ascent was originally made.

When the outer slopes were cleaned of rubbish, the substantial staircase of rubble stone set in mortar, over which we mount, was built up to save the scramble over the tedious ascent. In the old days this part of the ascent was carried by a staircase to the right, passing up a rock-lined gully from the tank. At the top of the stairs is a small platform, or view-point; leaving this on the right, we enter one of the grand galleries with a guarding wall, which, more than anything else, brings realisation of the engineering feat accomplished. This great gallery runs horizontally, and, with its extension, embraces about a quarter of the rock-circumference in its clasp.

The story of Sigiri rock, already outlined, is as romantic and wonderful as anything to be found in history.

In the history of the island we have already met with King Kasyapa I (A.D. 477 or 511), and heard why he felt the urgent need of placing himself in some strong position to defy his brother's wrath (see p. 27). This parricide chose Sigiri rock, and flying there converted it into a stronghold from which he ruled the land, until he met his welldeserved fate. His engineers adapted the precipices in a marvellously skilful manner, and it is Kasyapa's galleries, restored, which are still used.

From the great gallery, which is broken here and there by short ascents of two or three steps,