The Green Path Road may be followed up to the neighbourhood of the Kuttam Pokuna, and beyond this point the way to Vijayarama lies along the ancient grass-grown road (mentioned on p. 108), which finally merges into a jungle track. Following this, for ever in deep shade, screened by the thickly growing scrub and trees, we came at last to a small plantation and mounted the bund of a tank (Palugas Wewa) covered with lotus flowers.

Once more in the jungle the way leads through a wood of scraggy trees resembling olives; these are called Vira, and in season (August) bear a small edible fruit like a raspberry. The undergrowth has been cleared out by the labour of the Archæological Survey, and, peering between the twisted stems, we soon see the gleam of granite stones, here and there, scattered widely. From the point where walking begins near the Kuttam Pokuna, the distance to these buildings is about one mile and a half.

Of Vijayarama itself nothing is known except what the stones and tokens have revealed; there is nothing by which we can recognise it in the country's annals; even the name has been given to it in modern times. Yet here once stood a large and spreading monastery which possessed, in addition to all the usual buildings, a dagaba, and a preaching-hall of an exceedingly beautiful design which has attracted men from far. This was connected with the main building by a raised passage walled in, and reached by a flight of steps on each side.

The most attractive feature of this fine piece of work are the carved stones decorating the exterior

wall of the platform. These are panels with figures differing from each other, some containing only a single male figure and others a male and female. They stand beneath a carved canopy of curious makara - pattern. These bloated dragon beasts face each other open-mouthed, each with a figure, sometimes human, sometimes animal, in their jaws. In the hollows of their backs are quaint dwarfs. The makaras, with their curved backs and fish-like tails, here much more resemble dolphins than crocodiles. Besides these there are striking gargoyles and bits of floral decoration falling vertically. The impression made by this careful and artistic work, here, far out in the jungle, visited by comparatively few, was heightened by the gleams of light which, falling through the trees, struck, as if of set purpose, on the carvings, bringing out the delicate chiselling against a background of shadows. The guard-stones of a small vihara, showing a bloated dwarf of unusual size, positively shone with a kind of malicious intensity. The enormously fat figure sways to one side with one hand on hip, and follows his type in all the usual details, which may be clearly studied here owing to his comparatively large size (see illustration, p. 176).

One of the small viharas contains a headless and armless figure of Buddha in the rare upright attitude. There were probably three other similar figures and four seated ones.

"It may not be unreasonable, perhaps, to assume that this pilimagé (image-house) was dedicated to the four Manushi Buddhas, three of whom

preceded Gautama in the present Kalpa." (1893 Report.)

Outside the monastery wall are the monks' cells and the refectory, and in the outermost precincts a very interesting discovery was made of what has been undoubtedly a hot-water bathroom. The arrangement of the room leaves no doubt as to its purpose, and a quantity of charcoal and ashes was dug up, while there was—

"a low platform of brick-work, 5 feet square, doubtless the base of the lipa (hearth) used for heating the chatties of water intended for the ablution of the clay-bedaubed monks." (1893 Report.)

Judging by the sculpture and some votive tablets-copper plaques-unearthed at the dagaba here, the date of the monastery is placed at about the ninth century. Quaint bronze figures of men and animals very rudely shaped were dug up in the shrines. As two of these, a figure and an animal, lay in the direction of each of the cardinal points-i.e. north a lion, south a horse, east an elephant-Mr. Bell suggests that this series of animals, the same as that appearing on the moonstones (with the exception of the bullock, which may easily have been lost), points out some underlying connection between the two; the series may also have had some astronomical significance.

Further out even than Vijayarama extended the sacred buildings of Anuradhapura. For half a mile north-east is Kiribat dagaba, linked by name

with that other "milk-rice" dagaba at Polonnaruwa. It is now a mere shapeless mass, only 30 feet high and 200 feet round the base, but from its condition and construction may be ranked among the older, and may possibly have been the oldest of all the large dagabas.

CHAPTER IX

TWO OUTLYING MONASTERIES

MULLEGALLA has been warmly praised by the ex-Archæological Commissioner. Yet it is doubtful if it will appeal to ordinary people as much as Vijayarama with its superb preaching-hall, which gives the imagination something to work upon. Only those who have a live interest in these exceptional ruins will take the trouble to visit this most lonely little monastery, lying amid trees, beneath a carpet of speedwell blue.

To find it, Mihintale Road must first be followed to its junction with that to Jaffna. Some distance further the Jaffna Road is crossed by the railway, and here any conveyance must be left while we turn up the line to the left. A guide is essential, otherwise the narrow jungle path, breaking off about three-quarters of a mile beyond the crossing, would never be found. This leads through dappled light and shade, brightened by the red clusters of leaves of a plant like laurel, shining with the transparency of rubies where they catch the sun-shafts.

The walk is not severe, and almost unexpectedly we face in surprise a very small ruin showing many of the characteristics of the "Outer Pavilions." Wonder deepens as the details of the construc