Line does duty as the roof and is gorgeously painted with the Northern Buddhist conventional portraits, flowers, and various other designs. The temple contains a large number of images of the Buddha and his disciples. In the precincts are a dagaba and a copy of the impression of Buddha's footprint upon Adam's Peak. The Elephant Rock (Etagala), which adjoins the Tortoise, is the favourite resort of visitors and residents alike. It affords delightful views of the town, the lake and the more distant country. WELLAWA (19m. 18c.).—At Wellawa the aspect of the Wellawa country already begins to change, and products that we have not hitherto met with are noticed; amongst them tobacco and hemp. The village of about 1,500 inhabitants is under a Ratemahatmaya who pays a monthly visit of inspection, while minor judicial causes are dealt with by a Gansabawa president at fortnightly sessions. The landscape is enriched by the Yakdessagala, to which we have referred, and Dolukanda peak. Fair sport in snipe, deer and hare may be obtained. The neat little railway station of two stories, with its flower garden extending along the platform, will be noticed. GANEWATTE (26m. 39c.).—As we approach Ganewatte the Ganewatte little paddy farms, which have been observed amongst the greater stretches of waste land covered with natural jungle, gradually become fewer, and it is evident that we are entering a sparsely populated region. There is a rest-house at Hiripitiya, about a mile from the station, which is useful to the sportsman. It is, however, necessary to order provisions in advance or take them. For about twelve miles from Ganewatte the country on either side of the railway appears to be waterless and uncultivated, until about four miles from Maho a large pond is passed. Here the signs of life are storks and water fowl. Paddy fields again appear, and cart roads are in evidence on both sides of the line suggesting a centre of some importance amongst the wilds. MAHO (40m. 3c.).—The railway here brings within easy Maho reach of the antiquarian the remains of another royal city, Yapahuwa, which is situated about three miles from Maho station. Yapahuwa was the retreat of the reigning sovereign Bhuvaneka Bahu I. after the downfall of Polonnaruwa, and remained the capital for eleven years from 1303. The most interesting of the remains have been removed to the Colombo museum, and amongst them a stone window with forty-five circular perforations within which are sculptured symbols and figures of dancers and animals, the whole being carved out of a single slab of granite. It shows the great artistic skill of the period and gives a clue to the lavish architectural Northern Ambanpola Galgamuwa Talawa Anurádhápurá decoration employed in beautifying the city, notwithstanding the troublous times. But Yapahuwa soon met with a fate even worse than Polonnaruwa; for the Pandyan invaders not only overthrew it, but captured and carried off to India the national palladium, the tooth of Buddha. Travellers can obtain single or double bullock carts at Maho at very moderate rates of hire. The only accommodation in the neighbourhood is the rest-house at Balalla about three miles distant. It is necessary to take what food may be required or order it in advance. The climate being exceedingly hot a plentiful supply of aërated waters should also be taken as the water of the district is not to be trusted. AMBANPOLA (47m. 21c.).-As we approach Ambanpola the dense scrub gives place to more open country and the forest trees become finer. Upon reaching the river Mioya over which we pass upon approaching Galgamuwa some excellent timber will be noticed, indicating increased fertility due to a more ample supply of water. But upon proceeding further north we are soon again in stunted scrub which renders the journey monotonous as compared with our experiences on the railways further south. GALGAMUWA (53m. 40c.).-The country around Galgamuwa abounds in artificial lakes or tanks constructed for purposes of irrigation, one of which will be noticed quite close to the station from which the water supply for our engine is obtained. By means of these tanks a considerable acreage of land is brought under cultivation; the products are, however, quite different from those with which we are already familiar, the chief of them being gingelly, chillies, kurrakan, gram and cotton. There are eighteen irrigation tanks in the neighbourhood, around and about which birds are plentiful; snipe, golden plover and teal affording good sport. Large game too abounds in the forest, including leopard, deer, pig, elephant, and bear. There is a rest-house within a mile of the station where the traveller will find the usual accommodation. Provisions should be taken or ordered in advance. TALAWA (71m. 75c.). Talawa has no special interest for the visitor, and no accommodation beyond that afforded by the railway station. Its possibilities in the direction of cotton culture are being put to the test by the government, who have established an experimental station not far from here. ANURADHAPURA (81m. 21c.).—Anurádhápurá is the capital of the North Central Province and the seat of a Government Agent; but beyond this it is a place of supreme interest to the visitor and is consequently provided with considerable accommodation for the traveller. The hotel is fairly spacious and very comfortable, but it cannot be said that the accommodation is sufficient at all times, and it is very necessary for the Northern Line The story of the city Mihintale intending visitor to secure rooms before proceeding on the journey to Anurádhápurá. Professional guides and convey ances may be obtained. The city is on a level plain, about three hundred feet above the sea, and possesses a warm but not uncomfortable climate, the mean temperature being 80° Fahr. The rains extend from October to December. January is often a very pleasant month, but liable to showers. February is generally most pleasant, while March and April are rather warmer. Fine weather and wind characterise the months of July and August. But the weather seldom interferes with the visitor, as even in the wet season fine intervals are frequent and enjoyable. Before entering upon a description of the many wonders of Anurádhápurá it should be stated that from July, 1910, the Government Railway Department are inaugurating a motor mail service from Anurádhápurá to Trincomalee, sixty-five miles distant. For those who do not care to go to the expense of hiring a private motor car for the circular trip mentioned on pages 122-124, a trip by the mail coach to Trincomalee is strongly urged. Thereby at a reasonable cost a delightful experience of one of the most charming real jungle roads (on which one may possibly light upon an unwary leopard or wild boar) in the island will be obtained, whilst in Trincomalee one of the most lovely of natural harbours in the world will be discovered. (See also description of Trincomalee on p. 124.) The account of Anurádhápurá given in these pages is intended mainly to excite the interest of the traveller or to quicken that which has already been aroused before he proceeds to make a personal acquaintance with the ruins. It is mainly extracted from the author's previous work upon the subject.* It is a great thing that the period of the erection of the buildings whose remains now stand before us falls within the domain of authentic history. Not a single building or sculptured stone has been found that does not come within this period, and it is remarkable that in India no relic of ancient architecture has been discovered of a date anterior to that of the ruined cities of Ceylon, while the history of the latter is infinitely clearer and more reliable than that of the adjoining continent, a circumstance due to the careful preservation by the Sinhalese of the olas on which the events of very early times were inscribed. Mihintale first claims our attention because here began the Buddhist influence, the efficient cause of all the constructive energy which the Sinhalese displayed in the erection of their vast cities and monuments. Eight miles to the east of the *Ruined Cities of Ceylon," by Henry W. Cave, M.A., F.R.G.S., M.R.A.S. 4th Edition. Hutchinson & Co., London, 1907. |