chiefs held in the great Audience Hall of the palace his Kandy dominions were transferred to the British Crown. military Good government speedily brought about contentment and Effect of the rapid advancement of civilisation. And recrudescence of the roads wars, which had lasted for three hundred years, was guarded against by the construction of good military roads. It seems to us somewhat strange that no attempt was ever made by the Portuguese or Dutch during their three centuries of warfare with the Kandyans to compass their end by means of roads. Roman history had afforded many notable examples of this mode of conquest from which they might have profited. The new roads of the British soon broke down the exclusive habits of the inland population, and the march of progress has been continued without interruption to this day. contentment Freedom and the benefits that follow in its train have now Peace and become familiar to the Kandyan mind, and peace, prosperity and contentment are now enjoyed by a people for centuries accustomed to serfdom, poverty and the excesses of unscrupulous tyrants. Before we proceed to describe Kandy as it will be found by the traveller to-day it may be useful to remark that during the months of October to April it is always advisable for intending visitors to book hotel rooms in advance. It frequently happens that several large steamships arrive at Colombo together, and a rush for Kandy is made by a large number of their passengers, who fill the hotels to their utmost capacity. It is safer therefore to telegraph for accommodation, unless it has been ascertained in Colombo that this course is unnecessary. The local hostelries comprise the Queen's Hotel, which is a large and well-equipped institution, in a most convenient situation; the Florence Hotel, quiet, comfortable and homelike in picturesque grounds upon the lake road; the Firs Hotel, and other smaller hotels and boarding houses. Hotel accom- modation in and area The population of Kandy is about 25,000, of whom only Population about one hundred are English. The form of local government is a municipal council of which the Government Agent is the chairman, and the area embraced by the municipality is about eleven square miles. The streets as well as the hotels and the principal bungalows are lighted by electricity. The exploration of the interesting features of the town may be easily and pleasantly done on foot, with the occasional use of a jinrickshaw. This useful little man carriage is obtainable as easily as in Colombo, and the 'rickshaw cooly is under similar municipal regulations. He can be engaged by the hour for a trifling sum. The jinrickshaw is especially useful if taken out on little expeditions and left by the roadside during the exploration of places that are accessible only by pathways. Horse carriages can be obtained at the hotels. As we ascend the steep acclivities the beauty of the landscape approaches the sublime; we gaze across far-reaching valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls over channels strewn with massive rocks, and through scenes of almost majestic beauty; we see the Hunasgeria peak towering above vast stretches of vivid greenery where cacao groves are interspersed with masses of lofty palms, with here and there patches of the most lovely colour of all vegetation—the emerald hue of halfripe paddy; the grandeur of the Mátalé hills and the whole surrounding country which, when viewed from the heights that embrace the town, is a panorama of surpassing loveliness. Not the least charming feature of Kandy is the surprising mildness of the climate. Its height above the sea is scarcely two thousand feet, and its distance from the equator is but six degrees; yet a blanket at night is welcome and comfortable; whereas in Colombo it is never required. The days are hot and somewhat glaring, owing to the lack of that red tint in the roads which is so comforting in Colombo; but the refreshing early mornings and evenings admit of a goodly amount of exercise. The cosmopolitan character of the visitors will be at once apparent; for not a week passes without the arrival of scores of fresh tourists from every part of the world. They come here to see the home of the later Sinhalese kings; the famous and beautiful mountain-stronghold that was the last part of Ceylon to fall into the hands of the foreigner; the Daladá Máligáwa, or Temple of the Sacred Tooth of Buddha; the quaint manners and customs of a people whose ancient dynasty endured for twenty-four centuries; the interesting temples and religious ceremonies of the Buddhist cult; the perfection of tropical botany and agriculture; and the most beautiful walks and drives in the tropics. Two roads encircle the lake the lower at the water's edge and the upper at a high elevation on the hill-sides. We choose the latter, and no sooner have we ascended to a moderate height, than a series of beautiful landscapes is presented to us through openings in the shrubs and trees which border the road. As we wind about the varied curves, the ever-changing aspect of the town and surrounding country presents a constant difference of outline and colour which is most enchanting. By far the most interesting walk or drive in Kandy is that known as Lady Horton's, from which a distant view of the road just described can be obtained. Here we take our stand for a few moments and gaze across the lake at the tea estates upon the opposing slopes. There we notice a rugged cliff rising to the height of 4,119 feet. This is the highest point of the Kandy tea-growing district known as Hantanne. 66 The uncultivated hill on the left of Hantanne is a point of Kandy vantage from which magnificent stretches of country may be Hantanne seen. It is commonly known as "Mutton Button," a corruption of its correct name Mattanapatana." The ascent of this hill, which is about 3,200 feet high, is a somewhat arduous task, and occupies from two to three hours; but our exertions are well rewarded by the splendid views which it commands. In In winding course we continue to ascend until, at the north- Dumbara eastern point, the valley of Dumbara bursts into view. spite of the clearings made for cultivation, it is still beautifully wooded. The lovely jungle is, however, fast giving way to the less beautiful but more remunerative tea and coco plantations. This district is about 12,000 acres in extent, about 7,000 of which are now under cultivation. The elevation, which is from 700 to 1,200 feet above sea-level, is found to be most suitable for the cultivation of a large variety of products, especially when, as is the case with Dumbara, the rainfall is moderate and well distributed, being about sixty inches in the year. We see, therefore, in Dumbara, fields of cacao or chocolate trees with large rubber trees planted amongst them for shade. Some estates consist of fields of pepper, areca nuts, coconuts, cacao and coffee, while here and there are fields of tea bushes interspersed with coconuts. Vanilla and cardamoms are also represented. The district is, however, chiefly noted for its cacao or chocolate, of which it has upwards of five thousand acres. Beyond the Dumbara valley we notice in the far distance the outline of a noble mountain which is known as the Knuckles. The top of this mountain is shaped by four distinct peaks resembling the knuckles of the hand, from which it derives its name. It is an important district under cultivation for tea, cinchona, cardamoms, and other products. We have mentioned Lady Horton's Walk before describing the town itself, because the traveller is recommended to take the earliest opportunity of seeing the panorama of the Kandyan country spread out before him from these heights. The entrance to the walk will be found in King Street near the gates of the King's Pavilion. The length of the walk is about three miles. One of the chief objects of interest to all travellers, and The Temple generally the first visited, is the Daladá Máligáwa or Temple of the Tooth of the Tooth. The The Temple and the Pattirippuwa, which is the name of the octagonal building on the right of the main entrance, are enclosed by a very ornamental stone wall and a moat. Temple itself is concealed by the other buildings within the enclosure. Upon entering we pass through a small quadrangle |