Nagarahâra there is a cave. It is on the southwest face of the Po mountain. Buddha left his shadow on the rock inside. Looking at it from a distance of ten paces or so, it is like Buddha's actual self, with his golden complexion, his thirty-two greater and eighty lesser characteristic marks, all brightly visible. The nearer one goes, the more indistinct it becomes, appearing as if it were really He. The kings of the various countries round about have sent skilful artists to sketch it, but they have not been able to do so. The people of the country have a tradition which says, "A thousand Buddhas are all to leave their shadows here."

A hundred or so paces to the west of the shadow, Buddha, when here, shaved his head and cut his nails, and himself with the help of his disciples built a pagoda seventy to eighty feet in height, as a model for pagodas in future. It exists to this day, and by its side there is a monastery in which there are over seven hundred priests. In this place there is a pagoda in honour of the Lo-han and Buddhist saints, of whom nearly a thousand have dwelt here.

In the second moon of winter (q.d. 11th moon), Fa-hsien and his companions, three in all, went southward across the Little Snowy Mountains (Safed Koh), which retain the snow, summer and winter alike. On the northern side which is in the shade, it is frightfully cold; and when a gale gets up, it makes one shut the mouth and shiver.

Hui-ching could go no farther; he foamed at the mouth, and said to Fa-hsien, "I too cannot recover; you had better go on while you can; do not let us all pass away here";-and so he passed. Gently stroking the corpse, Fa-hsien cried out in lamentation, "Our original design cannot be carried out; it is destiny; what is there to be done?"

Then the pilgrims once more struggled forward; and having got across to the south of the range, they arrived at the country of Afghanistan, where there are approximately three thousand priests belonging to both the Greater and Lesser Vehicles.

Here they kept their summer retreat; and when it was over, they proceeded southward for ten days and reached the country of Falana or Bannu, where also there are over three thousand priests, all belonging to the Lesser Vehicle. From this point they journeyed eastward for three days and again crossed the Indus, on both banks of which the land is flat.

Across the river the pilgrims were in a country called Bhida (in the Panjâb), where the Faith is very flourishing under both the Greater and Lesser Vehicles. When the people of the country saw Buddhist priests from China coming among them, they were much affected and said, "How is it possible for foreigners to know that renunciation of family is the essence of our religion, and to travel afar in search of

the Faith?" Then they gave to the pilgrims whatsoever they required, and treated them in accordance with the Faith.

From this point travelling south-east for somewhat less than eighty yôjanas, the pilgrims passed by many monasteries, containing in all nearly ten thousand priests. Having passed by all these, they arrived at a country called Muttra or Mandor, and went along the river Jumna, on the right and left banks of which there are twenty monasteries with some three thousand priests. The Faith is here becoming very popular; and all the kings of the countries in northern India to the west of the desert are firm believers. When they make offerings to the priests, they take off their caps of State, and together with their families and officials of the Court, wait personally upon the priests at table. At the end of the meal they spread carpets on the ground, and sit down facing the president, not venturing to sit on couches in the presence of priests. The arrangements at these ceremonies of the Faith have been handed down by tradition from the time when Buddha was in the world even unto the present day.

To the south of this, the country is called the Middle Kingdom (of the Brahmans). It has a temperate climate, without frost or snow; and the people are prosperous and happy, without registration or official restrictions. Only those who till the king's land have to pay so much on

the profit they make. Those who want to go away, may go; those who want to stop, may stop. The king in his administration uses no corporal punishments; criminals are merely fined according to the gravity of their offences. Even for a second attempt at rebellion the punishment is only the loss of the right hand. The men of the king's body-guard have all fixed salaries. Throughout the country no one kills any living thing, nor drinks wine, nor eats onions or garlic; but chandâlas are segregated. Chandâla is their name for foul men (lepers). These live away from other people; and when they approach a city or market, they beat a piece of wood, in order to distinguish themselves. Then people know who they are and avoid coming into contact with them.

In this country they do not keep pigs or fowls, there are no dealings in cattle, no butchers' shops or distilleries in their market-places. As a medium of exchange they use cowries. Only the chandâlas go hunting and deal in flesh.

From the date of Buddha's disappearance from the world, the kings, elders, and gentry of the countries round about, built shrines for making offerings to the priests, and gave them land, houses, gardens, with men and bullocks for cultivation. Binding title-deeds were written out, and subsequent kings have handed these down one to another without daring to disregard them, in unbroken succession to this day.

Rooms, with beds and mattresses, food, and clothes, are provided for resident and travelling priests, without fail; and this is the same in all places. The priests occupy themselves with benevolent ministrations, and with chanting liturgies; or they sit in meditation. When travelling priests arrive, the old resident priests go out to welcome them and carry for them their clothes and alms-bowls, giving them water for washing and oil for anointing their feet, as well as the liquid food allowed out of hours. By and by, when the travellers have rested, the priests ask them how long they have been priests and what is their standing; and then each traveller is provided with a room and bedroom requisites, in accordance with the rules of the Faith.

In places where priests reside, pagodas are built in honour of Sâriputra, Mugalan, and Ananda (Buddhas to come), and also in honour of the Abhidharma, the Vinaya, and the Sûtras (divisions of the Buddhist Canon). A month after the annual retreat, the more pious families organize a subscription to make offerings to the priests, and prepare for them the liquid food allowed out of hours. The priests arrange a great assembly and expound the Faith. When this is over, offerings are made at the pagoda of Sâriputra of all kinds of incense and flowers, and lamps are kept burning all night, with a band of musicians playing. Sâriputra was originally a Brahman. On one occasion when he visited