have sold for as many guineas. I heard a great deal about the difficulty of preserving them, but of seven I brought on board with me, and though I took no particular pains, having them lying about my trunk, two were perfectly good when I reached England; as for the other five, they were eaten before we had been a week at sea.

We proceeded about three miles up the valley, surrounded on all sides by orange, cocoa-nut, and other trees, when we came to a place that had belonged to some mighty Don of other days, and which convinced us that this island had once enjoyed a degree of refinement and civilization, very different from that it now possesses. I believe the Cape de Verds once belonged to Spain, and this place had all the appearance of having been the residence of a Spaniard; for there were the remains of a stately magnificence about it, that I never saw with the filthy and slovenly Portuguese. An avenue lying between two rows of cocoa-nut trees brought us to the ruins of a large mansion, on part of the site of which a modern cottage was standing. On one side a flight of stone steps, in good preservation, led to a handsome terrace, at the farther end of which stood a small chapel, bearing little marks of decay, but sufficiently so to prove that the hand that had raised it must long since have mouldered in the dust. With some trouble we obtained the key and entered this sanctuary of private worship. It was of an octagon form, and very small, not more than thirty feet in circumference. Everything spoke of by-gone times. There were two paintings, but so defaced as to preclude the possibility of judging of their original merit; and on the altar was a small waxen image of the Virgin. On leaving the chapel we found a wine-press, of a construction so rude, that one might have supposed it had been made by the jolly god himself. We now retraced our steps to Trinidad, and here we made a repast of a truly pastoral nature; it consisted of fruit, roasted Indian corn, and milk. Nothing more substantial, not even a bit of bread, was to be procured.

Knowing the sort of folk we had to deal with, we had made an agreement at first as to what we were to pay for everything: but notwithstanding, they wanted to rob us in true Portuguese style; and when we would not submit, they fairly laid an embargo on us, until we prepared to force our way-vi et armis,-then they allowed us to depart; and we reached Porto Praye in safety.

Goats are not in such demand here as at Bonavista, as many individuals possess cows. Indeed, on our way to Trinidad we saw about twenty of them, as fine as could be met with any where. The horses, on the contrary, are under size, not exceeding twelve hands, but they are at the same time fleet, and capable of great fatigue, and look as if they had a cross of the Arab in them. When they are taken any tolerable care of, their coats are fine and shining, and in their legs and every other respect they certainly partake more of the thorough-bred than the draught horse. They are never shod, nor do I think such a thing as a horse-shoe has ever been seen in this part of the world; neither indeed on their sandy soil is it required.

Our ride this day had been fifteen miles, in addition to which we had walked eight, and we did not feel any inconvenience from the heat, though it was warmer than it is ordinarily during an English summer. At Trinidad we saw two remarkable trees, one of which is forty-two, U. S. JOURN. No. 82, SEPT. 1835.

F

and the other thirty-nine feet in circumference, but of what description they were we could not learn. They bore at the time neither leaves nor fruit, and their bark appeared, both to the feel and to the sight, extremely like the skin of an elephant. As we could obtain no information about them from the natives, we called them the elephant-tree; and in all our subsequent rambles we saw nothing whatever at all resembling them. The orange-tree in its natural state, as it is here, is about the size of our mountain ash, and, covered with its countless fruit, is a very beautiful object. The cocoa-nut tree, though it has a more tropical look, is by no means so ornamental; it generally grows to a great height, and has no branches, leaves, or fruit, except near its summit; it presents, therefore, an ungainly, naked appearance. I much question if there are any other set of islands lying so close together that differ more from each other than the Cape de Verds. At St. Jago might be obtained immense quantities of the finest fruit in the world, but it has no salt, while Maio, Jahe, and Bonavista produce, one may say, nothing else. The manner in which they obtain the salt is this:at a distance from the sea-shore, sometimes half a mile or more, they dig a hole a few feet deep in the sand, when the water springs up, which they shovel into shallow square basins cut in the ground. The process of evaporation caused by the sun's rays then goes forward, after which they scrape up the salt together, and separate it from the sand. It is sold principally to Americans, who take it to Rio de Janeiro, and other ports of South America, where they dispose of it for hides, by which they make a lucrative return, sometimes realizing even as much as three times the original cost.

At English Harbour, on the island of Bonavista, where there is more business than anywhere else, a merchant who had lived there for some time, informed me that its trade on an average amounted to five hundred dollars a-day. This sum, though little more than thirty-six thousand pounds in the whole year, is, I should think, rather above than below the truth.

Our host had often talked to us of a farm he possessed in the country, near the village of St. Domingo, where we could have good sport, shooting monkeys, guinea-fowl, and wild pigeons. We determined to accompany him there; and as it lay nine miles off, we made early preparation for the excursion. The Padre had an old Spanish gun, that seemed to have been made the same year with Queen Anne's pocketpiece. It had a great deal of rich old fashioned carving about the stock, and the barrels were evidently upon the same principle as the Irishman's fowling-piece that was made for shooting round corners. However, we brushed it up, got some powder, and as a substitute for shot, that could not be obtained, we cut lead into small slugs. We resolved to proceed upon donkeys; but when we advised our host to do the same, he replied most indignantly, "Me hab horse, me no ride upon jackass." It seems the negroes of quality, one of whom our host considered himself, deem it beneath their dignity to ride upon donkeys. A considerable time was lost in fixing saddles, and getting other things to rights; as for bridles there is nothing of the kind put on don

*This is the Boabab, or Monkey bread-fruit tree (Adansonia digitata), a particular description of which is given in Mr, George Bennett's "Wanderings, &c."-ED.

keys here, which are guided altogether by a stick; but at last we were ready to start, and then our host George came out, leading his charger. He had no shoes or boots, but on his bare feet he had strapped a most Don Quixote-looking pair of spurs. Their rowels by measurement were exactly three-quarters of an inch in diameter.

We allowed mine host to take the lead, and beyond doubt, with his huge spurs, and the cords that served the purpose of stirrup-irons, grasped by his great toes, he was a most graceful horseman-no General attended by his Aides-de-Camp ever rode forth with more pride and dignity than our friend George. We with our cutlasses, and the Padre with his gun, jogging along at the heels of such a leader, would have made no bad representation of Don Quixote setting forth upon an expedition, squired by not one, but three Sancho Panzas. Nothing, however, was farther from our host's thoughts than all this, and it was really quite delightful to see with what exultation he would turn about and survey us as we moved after him down the street. Our road lay amongst the mountains, to the right of the course we had before pursued in going to Trinidad; and when we had proceeded about two miles, we came to a sad memorial of St. Jago's former greatness. It was about one hundred and fifty yards of causeway, even still tolerably good, and laid down in much the same manner as the pavement at present in the streets of London. As we advanced we could plainly perceive, that at some former period there had been a good paved road here, and still further convinced us that this island had formerly belonged to a race very superior to its present nondescript inhabitants. On our way we saw great numbers of the whitethorn, fully as high as they grow in England, and hundreds of a very small tree, from which the natives obtain castor oil, that serves them for domestic as well as medicinal purposes. We had also an opportunity of seeing some very beautiful birds peculiar to the island.

We had been gradually ascending through the mountains, and had got within a mile of our destination, when we came to a steep mountainpass, down which our road lay. The trees on each side the first part were so thick, that we could not see to any distance, but on a sudden a view burst on us that I have never seen surpassed. A valley covered with every variety of tree extended for two miles before us, bounded by a steep, bold, and highly picturesque range of mountains. We were so elevated as to command the whole view, and we remained for some time stationary, lost in surprise and admiration. It was indeed a grand and lovely prospect, and such a one as Salvator Rosa would have loved to have rendered immortal by his pencil.

If any that chance to read this should ever find themselves at this island, let them not fail to visit the valley of St. Domingo, for the scenery there is as varied and romantic as the eye could wish to behold. Never have I beheld a spot that made such an impression on me; and even at this moment I dwell with pleasure on the recollection of the various scenes that it presented. Monkeys were numerous, scouring along the brow of the mountain; also guinea-fowl, wild pigeons, and other species of the feathered creation; but all attempts to bring any of them to bag by means of the Padre's gun were entirely fruitless.

On arriving at the hamlet, or, as the natives call it, the town, of St. Domingo, we had some coffee, and afterwards getting a few of the people together, we commenced dancing to the music of two guitars.

What kind of dance it was it would be hard to say, for every one, including ourselves, appeared to be capering about, quite independent of his neighbour's motions. In the midst of our gaiety, however, a circumstance occurred which, though trifling in itself, was near leading to serious consequences.

One of our party had eighty sovereigns, which he always carried about his person, for locks and keys would prove very inadequate securities among the Portuguese. Our friend had consequently sewed them up in different parts of his dress, and while dancing, four or five that had worn a hole in one of his pockets, escaped from their hiding place, and rolled upon the ground. These he immediately stooped to pick up, when matters were made worse, by more gold falling from his person. The natives were petrified with amazement. Indeed, it would be impossible to describe their astonishment, for there was not one of them that had ever before seen ten pieces of gold. It seemed to them a perfect treasure. Our companion, after a little trouble, such as threatening to run a fellow through the body, unless he spat out two sovereigns he was endeavouring to swallow, regained the entire; and as it was now ten o'clock, we prepared to depart.

Nothing can exceed the splendour of the nights in these islands, the light from the moon being sufficient to read by with the greatest facility. On this account we had delayed our departure, and when we started, the moonlight, softening down the outline, heightened the beauty of the surrounding scenery. We had got as far as the mountainpass I have already referred to as being shaded with trees on each side, when our friend George, who, as usual, was riding in front, dropped from his horse, apparently in an agony of pain. The Padre at once jumped off his donkey and hastened to his relief; but while stooping over the fallen man, three fellows rushed from the thicket close by, and one of them gave him a blow with a club between the shoulders, that brought him on his face to the ground. We immediately perceived that this was a preconcerted attack, caused by the sight of the gold at the village; and that our host had thrown himself from his horse in order to avoid rendering us any assistance. In a moment my companion and myself were on our feet, playing round us with our cutlasses, while our opponents, of whom there were three, aimed desperate blows at us with their clubs, the poor Padre all the time lying with his nose buried in the sand, afraid to move hand or foot, and roaring at the utmost pitch of his voice.

Our host did not attempt to side with either party: we called to him that if he moved we would run him through the body,-notwithstanding the day was going against us. Their long heavy clubs, which they made use of with both hands, kept us at a distance; and I had already received a blow on my left arm that made it hang powerless by my side. At length my compauion, who fought most determinedly, got his cutlass broken close to the hilt.

"My heavens!" he cried, "our game is up, for my cutlass is gone." "Seize the Padre's gun!" I shouted, "that is lying beside him." He did so, but not without getting a blow, which, if it had come fairly on his skull, would have made the world of little future trouble to him. However, he recovered himself,-fired at random on our assailants,— one of whom dropped, and the other two seeing this took instanter to

the wood, leaving us in quiet possession of the field. Our first care was to re-load the gun, and then go to the assistance of the Padre. It was some time before we could make him understand the true position of affairs.

"I am a holy Padre," he cried, "oh don't murder me! I will give you all I have, if you will only spare my life."

“Tut, man, we are your friends; take your nose out of the sand and get up," said my companion.

"Yes, I swear it!" again exclaimed the Padre. "I am a poor holy father, but you shall have everything if you only spare my life." "Don't you know us, Padre ?" we said, taking him by the neck and

raising him up.

"No!" he says, "I don't know you; nor will I ever say anything about you if you don't murder me.'

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Come, Padre, this is nonsense; open your eyes! !"-for he had them fast closed, as if fearful to look upon the daggers he thought were at his throat. After some time, however, we inspired him with a degree of confidence; and then he very slowly unclosed his eyes-still doubting whether he had to do with friends or foes.

Our object now was to get off as quickly as possible, lest we should have a second attack; more particularly when we found that our fallen assailant had been more frightened than hurt: for after a little he started up and dashed after his companions into the wood. Our host George we would not again suffer to mount his horse, fearing he might ride away from us; but we placed him on a donkey and made him go in front, giving him to understand that the moment we were again attacked we would shoot him dead upon the spot. Thus on we went, highly amused with the Padre, who would stop every ten yards and whisper to us that he was quite sure he saw the black fellows peeping at us from amongst the bushes.

However, when we had got so near home as to think ourselves really out of danger, we determined to play him a trick. On a sudden, therefore, we shouted, "Here they are!" and fired off the gun. The Padre was mounted on the horse, and away he went; but he had not got above twenty yards, when the bough of a whitethorn struck him right across the forehead and knocked him on the ground, where he lay, again shouting out and entreating in the most vehement manner that they would not murder him. We stood over him laughing for some time; but at last he listened a little, and then opened his eyes and looked at us in amazement.

"What! is it you?" he exclaimed; "dear me, they gave me such a blow here on the forehead with one of their clubs; but where are they?" And he raised himself on his elbow and looked about in the greatest terror. However, we got him once again mounted, and reached home without any further adventures.

[To be concluded in the next.]