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extremity. The men went off merrily from alongside, singing their accustomed tune to keep time with their oars. As they approached the surf, which was white with feathery foam, their voices were more subdued and the utterance much quicker; indeed the terrific appearance of those ever-rolling surges must have an influence over the most courageous boatman, possibly not so much for his own safety, as for the lives of those individuals intrusted to his care. Accidents, wholly unavoidable, would frequently occur, but the catamarans were constantly dancing over these raging billows, and handsome rewards given by the Company for rescuing persons from drowning; and many of these naked heroes wore round their necks a handsome silver chain and badge as an honourable distinction for saving a certain number of lives.

The first surf that took us came bubbling and hissing along curling its fleecy head, and it was not without a sickening sensation of apprehension that I saw the boat laid nearly broadside to it. Pascoe laughed and I tried to do the same, but it was no go. The sea struck us and the spray flew many feet above our heads, but the Massoolah boat rose like a cork upon the summit of the surge, which rushed on towards the beach, and we were again floating on comparatively smooth water; the song was resumed, though not so loud as at first, whilst the watchful eye of the steersman kept a sharp look-out for the next sea. It came much larger than the first, and the boatmen exerted their utmost skill and strength to get inshore so as to avoid its extreme fury; their voices emitted a low hissing quick noise, pronouncing the word "Aysa," which had a curious effect on the ear, as the sound very much resembled that which was caused by the commotion of the waters, as if the men were holding mysterious communion with the spirits of the raging element. Again we were lifted up and borne along with amazing rapidity in the midst of foam and spray and threatened death, for the boat nearly rolled over when on the curling top of the sea, and was half filled, to the great detriment of our white trowsers and uniform coats. At length, after two or three repetitions, we got safely on land; and Major Campbell, who had been watching our approach, kindly invited us to his quarters, where we re-dressed and made ourselves fit to appear in public. We dined with him, and afterwards went out for a stroll through the streets; and I remember being much struck with the immense number of shops and stalls for the sale of confections and sweetmeats. The sounds of music attracted us to a large building, which we entered without hesitation, and the overpowering brilliancy of light within nearly blinded us. It was a temple of idolatry nearly filled with worshippers, who on seeing us uttered the most deafening shouts, and some of the natives taking us by the arms, we were hurried before the altar of as mishapen and hideous a figure as imagination could possibly conceive. It was a gigantic beastly creature, yet possessing something like human features, to which, however, it would be utterly impossible for any description to do adequate justice; and the votaries of this monstrous specimen of indecency, either labouring under intoxication or the effects of opium, were throwing their bodies into the vilest contortions and attitudes that licentiousness could suggest. Utterly disgusted with the spectacle, I requested Pascoe to quit the place, but he seemed desirous of witnessing the ceremony, and assumed a carelessness of manner which I knew he did not feel. Again I urged him to depart; for the

infuriated and maniac countenances of the worshippers began to excite a considerable degree of alarm, but Pascoe whispered me, "For the love of heaven, remain quiet, and do not display the smallest semblance of fear! We cannot return if we would, as you may convince yourself if you look round-not at this moment though, lest they should suspect -we have entered against orders into this infernal den, and must make the best of it-the fellows know their advantage, and we shall probably be plundered if not murdered, but take care of your dirk and stand firm by my side-we must take our chance."

I took an opportunity of stealing a glance towards the great doors, and the dense crowd between us and the place of retreat convinced me, in a moment, of the futility of attempting an escape; whilst the shouting, shrieking, yelling, and laughing of these frantic blacks, on whom the dazzling glare from immense lamps shed a red hue, gave something of an idea of the infernal regions, with Belzebub presiding at a public meeting. The scenes we witnessed that night are not fit to meet the eye in print; debauchery and every evil passion triumphed to a degree of hellish wickedness; several times I felt attempts to get my dirk from me, but I held it fast, and both of us received personal insults of a gross nature. Still we had brought it upon ourselves, and to get away by compulsion was impossible. We made an effort to pass through the crowd, but were instantly repulsed, and the overpowering odours of burning sandal wood, together with the excessive heat, were fast exhausting our strength; a sickening faintness came over me, and I should have fallen-when suddenly the noise ceased, and looking round to ascertain the cause, I saw an officer, with a detachment of soldiers, standing within the portals, and the bright bayonets glistened in the flood of light that was poured upon them. The officer beckoned us to approach, and no hindrance was now thrown in our way, so that we were soon enabled to join the detachment and retire. For this timely release we were indebted to a serjeant, who had seen us enter, and being aware of the nature of the temple, had lost no time in going to the fort, and informing the officer of the guard, who sent a subaltern with a party of men, to prevent mischief. We expressed our warm acknowledgments to the officer for his timely assistance, and his reply recalled sensations that I could not account for; his voice was quite familiar to my ear, but where or when I had heard it I could not recollect, and every time he spoke my thoughts became more and more confused. “ You will perhaps pardon me, Sir," said I," for being inquisitive, but I cannot help thinking that we have met somewhere before;-may I request the favour of your name ?"

"The name is unknown to you, Mr. Grummett," he replied; " you may see we are old acquaintances by my familiarity and the knowledge I retain of your person.

"I am much puzzled," returned I, "Grummet is certainly my name, and you evidently know me. Yet my memory is at fault, for I cannot recollect you."

"That hole of iniquity has shook your nerves, young gentleman," answered he," but to-morrow you must favour me with a visit; I shall then be off duty, and will introduce you to another old acquaintance- a lady who has never forgotten you since the separation at St. Jago."

"It is Mrs. Jennings!" I exclaimed, " and you are

"Her husband," replied he," but the name of Jennings did not belong to us, and I have taken my proper one on being reinstated in rank. I am not ashamed of the past, Mr. Grummett, but perhaps it would be as well to suffer by-gones to be by-gones, except between ourselves. I shall call upon you in the morning, and your friends will accompany you to breakfast with me. There is the tavern; and now, good night.'

I grasped his hand with true friendship, briefly expressed my gratification at meeting with him, and the brightening of his prospects, and we parted for the night. It was the Jennings whom I have noticed so copiously in my first trip as corporal and serjeant, but now a lieutenant, and high in favour as a clever officer.

VISIT TO THE CONVENT OF MEGASPILION AND Delphi.

BY A NAVAL OFFICER.

No description can convey the most remote idea of the beauties of the Gulf of Corinth, more particularly of the shores forming the entrance between Lepanto and Vostigga: on both sides are mountains, composed of strata of many colours, variously shaped, divided by precipices and glens apparently caused by the many convulsions of nature, which all authors describe as having been very frequent in this classical country. Here and there patches of snow crowned their summits, although the middle of summer had arrived. From thence downwards fir and pine clothed their sides, occasionally admitting a waterfall to the eye, or a peep at the distant hills of the interior. Excepting the unrivalled Bosphorus and Vale of Tempe, I know of no scenery to be compared to this beautiful region; nor can I envy the mind which could contemplate Parnassus with the setting sun glowing upon it, with Helicon, Geranion, and Citheron, in the distance, and not at once acknowledge that his most sanguine expectations had been equalled.

Just as the day was closing we anchored off Vostigga, built upon the foundations of Ægium, formany years the seat of the Achaian congress. No vestiges of antiquity remain to mark the site of a place formerly so celebrated; and, excepting a magnificent plane-tree, which measures thirty-eight feet in girth, with two projecting branches from each side sixty feet in length, there is nothing to induce the traveller to delay one single moment for the purpose of research. Vostigga is the port from whence the greater part of the currants grown in the Morea are exported, and is famed for the excellence of its water.

On the following day we formed a party to visit the convent of Megaspilion, the largest monastic establishment now remaining in the Morea. We rode for the first two hours along the shores in the direction of Corinth, traversing a most beautiful plain luxuriantly planted with grape and currant vines; and then turned to the northward, gradually ascending the mountains, and halting occasionally to enjoy the more extended view which opened forth; the descent was rugged and steep, winding amongst gardens built upon terraces, generally speaking, the property of the convent: a sudden turn round a rock brought before us that most extraordinary edifice, surpassing in sin

gularity our most extravagant conceptions, and another hour found us at the entrance gate,-the state of the roads and bad condition of the horses having protracted our journey to seven hours, instead of five. Imagine a large white building, fitted into an irregularly-shaped hole in a rock five hundred feet above the roof, attaining in some parts the height of eight stories, and projecting only a few feet beyond the surface of the rock, devoid of one single regular line, except the outer wall, and you have before your mind's eye Megaspilion. The aspect is westerly, and commands a most extended prospect, having terrace-gardens in the foreground, naturally supported in many places by rocks; in the bottom runs a river, turning two or three mills, with here and there an occasional waterfall, kept within its natural limits by mountains, cultivated at their bases, but rocky, barren, and precipitous towards their tops. On the south is a fortified cave, capable of holding two hundred persons; and on the north, a singularly detached rock leaning against another, having a wide road to the principal entrance through the aperture. Such is the general external appearance of this fantastical abode. As a military station, in turbulent times, there is much to recommend it; and experience has hitherto shown its impregnability, unless regularly besieged. The rock is crowned by a fort containing two pieces of cannon, and the face of the building is everywhere pierced with loop-holes for musketry, which command all the direct approaches. In one of the civil wars, the Arnavots gained possession of the rock, and endeavoured to crush the convent by showering down large masses of stone from above. From the projection of the rock, all fell beyond its base, and the besiegers, despairing of success, retired. The credulous monks still point out an immense fragment which the Almighty had prevented them from hurling down, although they had conveyed it to the very edge.

When Ibrahim Pasha, in 1826, overran the Morea, this fortress alone resisted the combined attacks of arms and money (both equally dangerous to a Greek), and remained unconquered. Despair rendered desperate nine thousand souls enclosed within the walls and cave. In vain the Egyptian offered mercy if they would surrender, and threatened a general massacre if successful. Stimulated by a superstitious confidence that the Almighty, who had hitherto protected them, would not suffer their holy chapel to be despoiled by infidels, these Christian soldiers, confiding in their good swords, resolved to meet their doom at their posts. They sustained the attack, and not only defeated the besiegers, but nearly cut off their retreat. They never learnt the exact loss of the enemy, but acknowledge that fifty of their own friends perished.

Thus, at the expiration of two hundred years, do we find the soldiers of Christ, the Knights Hospitallers of yore, again buckling on their armour, and fighting valiantly for their religion, in all probability for the last time. This subject is naturally a favourite topic with the inmates; they revert to it upon all occasions. When I inquired about their library, their answer was-"Ah, Sir, before the siege we had a great many books; but we were then obliged to tear them up for cartridges."

The internal regulations appear to be in general very liberal. The gates are closed at sunset, after which period no stranger is admitted U.S. JOURN. No. 84, Nov. 1835.

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within the walls; but a lodging is offered in an adjoining house, and food handed from within by a basket. On taking leave no direct remuneration is offered, but a small gratuity for the general purposes of the monastery is never refused, and generally acknowledged by a parting embrace from the Abbot. The monks are two hundred and ten in number; they are elected in rotation, from the Serving Brothers, who perform all the duties of a menial whilst in this subordinate situation. They are allowed to reside in various parts of the Morea, charging themselves, when detached, with the surveillance of the property of the establishment immediately around them. The currant plantations yield one hundred thousand pounds weight per annum, and form the principal source of their revenue. The estate, likewise, produces all articles required for consumption, such as wine, bread, olives, cheese; and cotton sufficient for their wearing apparel, made by their own hands.

The cellar contains a supply of wine for two years' consumption, and is, without a doubt, the most curious part of the building, being formed by the natural cavity of the rock, through the fissures and pores of which trickles a sufficient quantity of delicious water to supply a cistern.

The chapel is enclosed by two brazen doors, upon which a spread eagle is cast, but contains nothing remarkable, except the palladium of the establishment-a waxen figure of the Virgin, said to have been made by St. Luke. It is encompassed by gold, silver, and precious stones, given at various periods by piously-disposed persons. The Abbot is elected annually, but is never displaced, unless some gross dereliction of duty can be proved against him. The Sub-Abbot holds his appointment by the same tenure; he superintends the finance, and has under his special charge the persons of all strangers who visit the establishment. Each individual is allowed a separate cell, where hang their arms most conspicuously placed.

During the Turkish government in the Morea their privileges were ever respected. Mahommetan visitors of rank repeatedly lodged in the house adjoining the walls, and were entertained free of all charge, without, on their part, exacting aught beyond the customary duties of hospitality. Veli Pasha, charmed with the courtesy and kind treatment he so frequently met with when Governor of the Morea, enlarged a chapel in front of the building, as a durable testimony of his gratitude. We parted from these friendly monks with sincere regret: they had vied with each other in instructing and amusing their guests, without prying into our affairs, or showing any curiosity to be made acquainted with more than we felt disposed to impart. We returned by the same road to the ship; and as our leave of absence had already expired, we were obliged to use all possible dispatch.

On the following morning we ran over to the Scala of Salona, and eagerly set forth to explore the ruins of Crissa, the ancient port of Delphi. The antiquarian will there only discover foundations of the former city even the Pleistus, which once ran by the walls with force, now exhausts itself in small rivulets amongst corn-fields, at a considerable distance from the sea.

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A trip to Delphi had been long talked of with delight amongst both officers and midshipmen. No sooner did the horses make their appor ance on the beach, than the boats were manned and rowed ashore : then commenced a most bustling scene, and cries such as these were

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