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5. What wages should an interpreter receive?

6. What are the ordinary charges per day at inns?

7. Is it absolutely necessary to appear in the costume of the country? In that case, what is the best mode of procuring a dress, and the probable cost of a complete equipment?

8. What is the first object on arriving at Grand Cairo, and the mode of proceeding from thence to Jerusalem?

9. To whom will it be proper to apply for lodgings on arriving at Jerusalem?

10. What is the best route from Jerusalem to Constantinople, the time it would require, and the method of travelling?

ANSWERS.

1. There is no difficulty in transporting baggage from place to place: every thing that can add to your comfort I should recommend you to take. I had a portmanteau, capable of containing twelve shirts, and other things in proportion; a pair of canteens, containing dinner and breakfast conveniences for two; a saddle and bridle, and small cloak case, similar to that which Dragoons have, to carry a change of linen, on the horse I rode. By all means carry tea. Coffee and sugar are to be purchased in every part of Syria. Take Jetters of credit on Constantinople or Smyrna. Calculate your expences at two guineas per day. Herries' bills are

payable at Cairo; but if you draw on Cairo from any other place, the loss is very great.

2. A common camp paillasse, a single blanket, and a pair of sheets, render you independent, though at Alexandria, Jaffa, Rama, Jerusalem, Acre, and Nazareth, beds will be provided for two or even three persons; your beds should roll up, and be carried in a canvass cover.*

3. Write from Rome immediately, taking the precaution to speak to the English Consul here, that he may certify you are English. Your application must be made to the English Ambassador at Constantinople, requesting the firman for self and suite, may be sent to Cairo, and addressed to the Consul-General. The communication from Constantinople to Cairo is one month.

4. Call on the British Consul, and do not land your baggage (at Alexandria) till he has sent his attendants to pass it through the Custom House. He will give you the necessary assistance to get to Cairo. I went by land to Rosetta, (30 miles distant from Alexandria, one day's journey,) and thence embarked in a boat for Cairo, a distance of about four days.

5. A Spanish dollar a day.

6. There are no inns, except one, at Alexandria, and there it cost for myself and servant nearly a guinea a day.

* The writer found a blanket quite unnecessary; he had two pair of linen sheets, sewed up at each side and at one extremity, as a defence against vermine. These were placed in a leathern case, previously steeped in a preparation used at Naples for resisting contagion.

Wherever you go there is a Convent or Consul, to whom you should resort.

7. The Consul-General will be informed of your arrival at Alexandria. Send your letters of introduction to him through the British Consul at Alexandria, and mention when you propose leaving the last mentioned place. Cairo is a mile and a half from the Nile it will therefore be necessary to call on him before you land your baggage at the port, called Boulac. Of course he will provide you lodgings, either at his own house, or elsewhere; if at the Convent, you should pay about half a dollar a day for each person, if you are furnished with a lodging only; but if supplied with necessaries for the table, &c. I should regulate the present as the drogoman of the mission, Monsieur Haziz, will direct you, and whom you may trust in every thing relative to your movements.

8. From Grand Cairo you may either go to Jerusalem across the desert, or descend the Nile to Damietta, and there embark for Jaffa, whence you sleep the first night at Ramla, and arrive the second at Jerusalem. On arriving at Jaffa you should apply to the acting Consul, who will send notice to Ramla and Jerusalem, and provide you with mules for the journey: across the desert it is four days.

9. You go to the Roman Catholic Convent, and will be furnished with every thing you want. On quitting Jerusalem you make a present of about two dollars a day for each person to the treasurer, and one dollar per diem for the whole party to the drogoman; besides pecuniary rewards to

the servants and Janissaries who attend you to the different holy places.

10. The most interesting route is certainly by land, through Acre, Damascus, Aleppo. I am uncertain as to the time, but I should suppose six weeks. If I had had time, I should have taken that route, avoiding the neighbourhood of Tripoli in Syria, where there is mal'aria; 1 crossed from Barutti to Cyprus, a voyage of two days, whence by crossing the island, and then to the coast of Caramania, you get by land to Constantinople in a fortnight.

11.* Take fine cloth for your benisch-jacket and waistcoat may be of any colour but green; the benisch is generally of a gay colour, and different from the rest. The breeches, called sbarroweel, are of great size, almost always blue, requiring about four times as much cloth as common pantaloons. The only advantage of buying the cloth in Europe is, that you get it finer and much cheaper. At Cairo the coarse cloth is dearer than the fine in Europe. Cairo will be the best place to have the dresses made up. I calculated 501. for the dress of myself and servant.

N. B. The plague usually begins in April and ends in July, in Egypt. In Syria it had begun a second time, the same year, in the month of September.

THE writer and his associate had every reason to be

* This seems more properly to be an answer to the enquiry, No. 7.

satisfied with the attentive kindness, which they experienced almost universally, in the domicils of the British residents ;— yet he cannot withhold the friendly advice conveyed to him in a note by an experienced Asiatic traveller, who had observed him on some occasion examining, rather too eagerly, a very formidable collection of coins and medals:

Pensate d'essere in Arabia. Il tutto si fa per denaro, e si tenta ogni mezzo di spogliare i Franchi, ed in specie Inglesi.

Chiamate per drogomano un certo ***, e chi jeri séra ha parlato al vostro domestico; di costui vi potrete servire come drogomano, e come servo all' occasione, e la paga sara di molto minore.

Se al contrario prenderete il soggetto di cui jeri m'avete parlato, lo pagarete molto, e bisognara farlo servire come Padrone, e giammai contento.

Le antiche sono furberie per levarvi denari: le potrete trovare in Ægytto migliori, ed a minori prezzo.

Aprite gli occhi con tutti, ed in specie coi Vice-Consoli.

FINIS.

W. HUGHES, Printer, Maiden-Lane, Covent-Garden.

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